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1 THE A-LIST FACIAL
If your skin needs a glamorous pampering, try Vaishaly Patel’s Signature Facial.
A must-visit destination for those-in-the-know, even if you do have to wait six months for an appointment. It is Vaishaly’s ‘magic’ touch, facial massage skills and skin insights that keep many devoted clients returning for more.At a glance – and a touch – Vaishaly was able to tell a great deal about my skin’s needs. Her sought-after, hour-long signature facial is a powerful combination of extraction, microdermabrasion (a mini appliance blasts the face with aluminium-oxide crystals, then removes dead skin). This was followed by a blissful lymphatic stimulation massage, followed by a clay mask and soothing moisturiser.
Result:The emphasis on face massage paid of and I was glowing for weeks! Bespoke facial (£100) by Vaishaly Patel at Vaishaly Facialist Clinic, 51 Paddington Street, London, W1
Details: 020 7224 6088

2 THE RICH GIRLS FACIAL
If your skin needs ‘crème’ of the crop style luxury that promises eternal youth,try the Crème de la Mer facial.
This spa experience converges the healing energies of the sea, light, sound and touch to impart a profound sense of wellbeing. I lay down on a relaxing treatment bed in view of a gently lit aquarium with water quietly flowing over slate. All stress floated away as my feet were smoothed and massaged in Crème de la Mer’s sensorial waters. This was followed by a face massage using sea quartz and pure diamond dust to refine the skin and prepare it for a concentration of the original Miracle Broth™(a priceless extract sealed with the legendary Crème de la Mer, infusing skin with vital nutrients and energies). After 90 minutes of pure skin indulgence, my hands were then treated to a therapeutic pressure point massage.
Result:Skin felt gorgeously moisturised, smooth, subtle and, trust me, this facial is worth every penny. The Ultimate Facial (£150 for 90 minutes) at the Urban Retreat at Harrods, Knightsbridge, London SW1
Details: 020 7893 8333

3 THE DRY SKIN FACIAL
If your skin needs an SOS hydration fix, the E’SPA Rehydrator Facial is the one for you.
This is the ultimate rescue for dry, stressed-out and tired complexions and skin that needs a little help. My face, neck and décolleté was treated to a deep cleanse, followed by exfoliation and a nourishing, hydrating facial massage incorporating acupressure and lymph drainage using the latest E’SPA wonder product – Botanical Rescue. A firming mineral mask was then applied and left to absorb while I was given a heavenly, mind clearing scalp massage. The treatment was topped off by a nourishing moisturiser.
Result:My skin felt deeply rejuvenated, nourished and drenched with moisture. The E’SPA Hydrator Facial (from £40 for 1 hour) and is available from spas nationwide.
Details: 01252 352 230

4 THE ANTI-BOTOX FACIAL
If your skin needs a natural lift, the Jurlique Fingertip Facelift Facial will work wonders for you.
My therapist called it the ‘natural alternative to cosmetic surgery’. The DeLuxe Rejuvanessence Jurlique facial comprised of a unique and very precise massage technique, using facial reflexology on the 91 muscles of the face, neck, skull and shoulders, whilst working on the connective tissue to make it more elastic and flexible. The massage was carried out using specially selected anti-ageing and rejuvenating products taken from the holistic, natural and organic Jurlique range. The aim of this facial approach is to help melt away lines and wrinkles, and revitalises the skin, leading to a younger, silkier and healthier appearance.
Result:My skin felt radiant and much more ‘alive’. Great for those of you with mature, tight-feeling skin who are anti-botox.A 90-minute trial treatment of De Luxe Rejuvanessence Jurlique Facial Trial treatment costs £99.50 and is available via Jurlique Day Spa and Sanctuary.
Details: 0208 995 2293

5 THE SKIN-KNOW HOW FACIAL
If you need some skin education, book yourself in for the Dermalogica facial.
After a full consultation and a beverage prescribed to suit your needs – relax, energise or detoxify. I lay back and relaxed whilst the therapist gave me a double cleanse under steam. This was followed by a thorough and unique Face Mapping skin analysis procedure (where my face was divided into 14 zones and the therapist pointed out areas of concern – from dehydrated areas to areas which were over-sensitive). After this, the treatment was tailored according to my skin’s concerns. Mine followed with an exfoliation, massage and finished with a helping of an addictive nourishing moisturiser.
Result:I left knowing about the condition of each part of my facial skin and a complexion that was clear and radiant. Dermalogica facial (£50 per hour).
Details: 0800 591 818

6 THE HEALING FACIAL
If your skin needs a bespoke and personalised fix, the Gem Stone Facial will suit you just fine.
The Gem Stone facial was the first completely bespoke, personalised ayurvedic facial I have tried. My treatment started with a facial and pulse diagnosis, Iridology and Tongue Analysis to identify your skin’s needs. This diagnosis identified my ayurvedic elements or doshas, which control particular organs or bodily functions. You could be a vata (air), pitta (fire) or kapha (water) – or a combination. According to the findings in the diagnosis, fresh ingredients are blended specifically for your dosha (personality type) and your skin’s needs – all handmade with organic ingredients and infused with crushed gem stones (such as bloodstone, jasper, quartz, tiger’s eye), mineral extracts, homeopathic remedies, ayurvedic herbs and therapeutic oils (such as lavender, lotus, neroli, bergamot, rose geranium, rose oil, ylang ylang). What impressed me most about this facial was the attention to your specific needs. The products include not just herbal remedies but also homeopathic and ayurvedic ones that are individualised and specially added to the mix during your treatment. My neck pains were also treated with some reflexology and acupuncture. At the end of the facial, I got to take home all the products that were used in little bottles, to continue the good work!
Result: This made-to-measure treatment left my skin glowing and my muscles tension free. Gemstone Facial (£80 for 75 minutes) via Organic Apoteke
Details: 020 8313 9568

7 THE YOUTH BOOSTING FACIAL
Elemis Visible Brilliance presents the Elemis Facial for those whose skin needs a youthful boost.
Before I started, my facialist informed me that my skins elasticity would increase by up to 28% and moisturisation levels by up to 38% after just one of these facials. The anti-ageing face and eye treatment instantly firms, decongests and plumps up the skin whilst reducing dark circles from around the eye contour. Specialised micro-circulatory massage techniques combined with the powerful proven formulations of Liquid Radiance, Cellular Recovery and the two-phase Amino Active Mask to help smooth, sculpt and restore skin radiance and plumpness. The superior treatment was further enhanced by a luxurious hand and arm massage and de-stress scalp treatment. Papaya Enzyme Peel, a gentle steam gives an even coverage by targeting any congested areas. After 75 minutes of pampering, I was woken by the gentle chime of tingsha bells, symbolising the ‘awakening’ and the end of the treatment.
Result:Skin felt fresh and a definite feeling of plumpness. Elemis Facial, (£115) or at salons/spas nationwide from between £55 - £95 for 1hr 15minutes.
Details: 0870 410 4210

8 THE PAMPERING FACIAL
If you’re looking for a treatment that is more than ‘just a facial’, opt for the Dr Hauschka Facial Treatment.
The treatment began with my feet being bathed in an aromatic sage filled bath. The foot and leg massage, hand and arm massage and head relaxation prepared me for the rest of the facial. The five step treatment started with a cleanse – including warm aromatic compresses, followed by a facial sauna and a clay-based mask mixed up to suit my skin. After two hours of pure bliss – which included the use of brushes with rhythmical sweeping movements to stimulate the lymph system, application of homeopathic ampoules to balance the skin and the use of the most gorgeous smelling products – I woke up to a thoroughly energised.
Result: I felt like a pampered princess and incredibly relaxed. Dr Hauschka Facial Treatment costs £60 for 2 hours.
Details: 01386 792 642

9 THE THERAPEUTIC FACIAL
If your skin needs a therapeutic boost Japanese style, try SK II Gen Ki Facial.
Steeped in ancient healing techniques incorporating tsubo energy pressure points and traditional Japanese facial massage, the SK-II Gen-Ki Energy facial left my skin visibly energised and firmer. The luxurious facial massage treatment uses four Japanese techniques of cleansing, steaming, energising and moisturising. The facial began with a tension releasing neck massage and a hot towel facial wrap to improve the circulation of blood, oxygen and nutrients to the face. My skin was then purified with SK-II’s Facial Treatment Cleansing Oil and toned with the Treatment Clear Lotion. This followed by an application of SK-II’s signature product Facial Treatment Essence loaded with Pitera, applied to the face, neck and decolletage to help combat dehydration. Next is an application of SK-II’s Facial Treatment Massage Cream, using massage movements that help to lift and firm the skin. Specially targeted facial pressure points were then stimulated. SK-II’s Signs Uplifter is then applied to target areas, where loss of elasticity can be seen. This is followed by the application of a Facial Treatment Mask to further tackle elasticity issues and finished with an application of SK-II Advanced Signs Treatment to moisturise.
Result: Left my skin looking and feeling visibly energised and firmer. The SK-II Gen-Ki Energy Facial starts from £40.
Details: 08000 721771

10 THE CHOCOHOLICS FACIAL
If your skin needs a naughty treat, try the Co-co2 facial - the ultimate experience of feeling uplifted and looking radiant.
Co-co2 is a unique combination of Herzog’s unparalleled oxygen skin care products and the beneficial properties contained in chocolate. The treatment begins with a deep cleanse and skin preparation and moves on to include a heavenly deep drainage massage using exotic Monoi oil that has been infused in cocoa beans. As the aromas of the beans begin to infuse the air, my skin was lavished with a deeply penetrating oxygen rich mask. In a layering action, this is a Karin Herzog exclusive vitamin rich chocolate cream, blended with the purest Swiss cocoa powder, delivering a multitude of essential anti-oxidants, potassium, lipids, and vitamins to instantly lift and brighten the skin. Finally a delicious layer of freshly melted real Swiss chocolate was used to gently warm and insulate my skin, allowing for all the beneficial ingredients to penetrate deep into the skin. To top it off, I was spoilt with a warm cup of hot chocolate, and a tasty chocolate gift.
Result:A feeling of being pampered like never before, with the bonus of chocolate, my serotonin levels (feelgood hormone) were completely uplifted and charged up. The Karin Hertzog Co-co2 Facial, starts from £55.
Details: 0800 056 2428

Overview of skin and functions

Our skin is our largest organ, performing several functions, including protecting us from invasion by foreign substances and serving as the transfer point for the release of toxins from our bodies. Our skin is also porous, which means it absorbs many of the substances with which it comes into contact. It is thus especially important to use only natural, gentle ingredients on our skin whenever possible.

The skin provides an honest mirror of our inner health and well being. Consider that when we eat a great deal of fatty foods or foods to which we are allergic, our skin is often the first indicator that we have mistreated ourselves. On the other hand, when have been eating healthily and enjoying plenty of fresh water and exercise, our skin exhibits a healthy glow that is indicative of the attention we are paying to ourselves.

Application to the skin of fresh, natural products such as essential oils, plant waters (also called "hydrosols") and cold pressed unscented oils helps maintain a youthful, glowing complexion. Essential oils and hydrosols are the fragrant liquids that are distilled from different plant parts, such as flower petals, herb leaves and tree barks, and are fundamental components of any solid, natural skin care regime. Cold pressed unscented oils are extracted from various fruits, nuts and seeds, and include olive oil, sweet almond oil, avocado oil and jojoba oil. Used in tandem, essential oils, hydrosols and cold pressed unscented oils work together to soothe and nourish the skin, encouraging a healthful, radiant complexion.

Skin Types

There are five basic skin types, and you will want to consider yours when making your own aromatherapy beauty products.

Oily Skin
Oily skin is caused by over-active glands, which produce a substance called Asebum, a naturally healthy skin lubricant. When the skin produces too much sebum, it becomes thick and heavy in texture. Oily skin is characterized by shininess, pimples and blemishes. Frequent steam cleaning and exfoliation can help reduce these symptoms.

Dry Skin
Dry skin usually results when skin fails to produce enough sebum to maintain a naturally lubricated surface. This lack of oil in the skin is often hereditary, but can also be caused by over-exposure to the sun and other environmental elements. As we age, our skin becomes more dry as decreased metabolism reduces the rapidity with which dead skin cells are replaced. Dry skin often appears coarse, tight, dull and flaky, with visible lines and wrinkles. Massage with essential and cold pressed oils can stimulate metabolism and alleviate dry skin conditions.

Normal Skin
Normal skin produces a healthy amount of sebum, and tends to be neither dry nor oily in feel.

Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skin reacts unfavorably to a variety of chemicals and environmental factors. Having had ample opportunity to compare brand new baby skin with skin that is just a few years old, it seems to me that all skin is delicate and sensitive when it is new. Increased exposure to nature's elements such as the sun, wind and cold, as well as to harsh cosmetic ingredients, tend to toughen skin over time.

Combination Skin
Many people have different skin types on different parts of the face. For example, it is not uncommon for a person to have oily skin around the nose, forehead and chin, while the rest of the face is more on the dry side. If you have more than one skin type on your face, it is wise to use products containing different ingredients to treat the areas differently.

The Benefits Of Using Fresh Products & Essential Oils On The Skin

Several years ago, I was shocked to learn of the ingredients that were in most of the skin care products I had been using on my skin for years. They were full of preservatives, thickeners, harsh gelling agents, dyes and a number of other chemical ingredients. These ingredients were designed to increase the aesthetic appeal and shelf life of products, but contributed nothing at all to the health of my skin.

I now make my own body lotion, facial creams, exfoliants and masks using fresh ingredients, and I conduct Aromatic Beauty Workshops to teach others how to make natural beauty products that are far superior to those available at even the most exclusive salons and department stores. I omit as many of the synthetic, chemical, man-made ingredients as possible, and ensure that my skin care products contain an abundance of fresh, healthful, beneficial ingredients.

At Home Facials Step by Step

A basic facial is easy to do at home.  All you need to do is three basic steps:  cleanse, tone and moisturize. Additional steps might include steaming, exfoliating and masking. Each of these steps is outlined below, along with suggested recipes for you to try.

Before cleansing your skin with a gentle cleanser, it is wise to give yourself a light steam treatment to open your pores and prepare your face for cleaning. To do this, simply soak a soft towel in a bowl of comfortably warm herbal tea (chamomile is one of my favorites). Wring out the towel and place it over your face and neck area and relax until it cools slightly. You may repeat this process, as it is quite soothing.

Cleanse your face with a gentle handmade cleanser such as Rose Cream Cleanser (recipe below). Use upward, circular movements of the fingertips to gently stimulate the skin and help lift surface debris and excess oil. Rinse with warm water and gently pat excess moisture from face with a soft towel. If you wear heavy make-up, you might wish to repeat the cleansing process.

After cleansing, it is important to tone the skin. Use ingredients that help balance the pH of the skin as it is typically disturbed during the cleansing process. The recipe for Tone Up Tea is excellent for most skin types, and contains aloe to soothe and green tea as an effective anti-oxidant. Apply the toner with a soft cotton pad, but do not rub the skin. Rather, saturate the pad and pat the toner over the face and neck area. Do not pat skin dry. If you sense the aroma of the cider vinegar, don't worry. It disappears quickly. Apple cider vinegar is the best natural ingredient to ensure optimal pH balance for the skin. Avoid eye area when using this toner. You skin is now ready for moisturizing.

Moisturize your skin using Aromatic Facial Oil, which contains a host of soothing ingredients to add moisture and nutrients to your skin. To seal in the moisture, be sure to apply the oil while skin remains damp from applying the toner. Gently apply the oil to your face and neck using patting motions. For oily areas of skin, one application of oil should suffice. Apply twice to dry areas of skin, waiting about 2-3 minutes between applications, and being sure to moisten the skin slightly with water or toner before the second application.

On occasion, you may wish to add a gentle exfoliation and mask to your treatment. You can try the recipes here, or make up your own using ingredients you have in your own kitchen. Persons with oily skin may find exfoliation beneficial once or twice a week, while people with dry skin may wish to exfoliate only once a month.

Recipes:

Rose Cream Cleanser

1 tablespoon sour cream
1 teaspoon rose hydrosol
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

Combine all ingredients in the order shown, stirring well after each one. Apply cleanser to face and neck skin, using gentle, upward sweeping motions. Rinse well. This recipe should be used within 2 days and makes enough for two cleanings.

Tone-Up Tea

1 cup distilled water
1 heaping tablespoon dried green tea leaves
1 heaping tablespoon dried chamomile flowers
1 tablespoon rose hydrosol
1 tablespoon aloe vera gel
3 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
3 teaspoon lemon juice (optional addition for oily skin)

Heat distilled water until boiling. Remove from heat and add green tea and chamomile. Steep for 15 minutes and strain out plant material. Add rose hydrosol, aloe vera and vinegar (and lemon juice, if using) and stir well. Pour into a clean bottle and label. Shake well to ensure the mix. Store in refrigerator for best results and use within 3 weeks.

Aromatic Facial Oil

3 tablespoons jojoba oil
3 tablespoons rose hips seed oil (or 3 tbsp. hazelnut oil for oily skin)
2 drops rose essential oil
3 drops lavender essential oil
2 drops geranium essential oil
2 drops palmarosa essential oil

In a glass bowl or dish, combine oils with essential oils. Stir with a clean pop sickle stick or plastic utensil to combine. Pour into a clean bottle, preferably one with a medicine dropper so you can apply the oil using the dropper. After cleansing and toning, and while skin remains a bit damp, apply a bit of the moisturizer using gentle patting motions. Do not rub the oil into the skin. Rather, just gently pat it onto the skin and it will absorb readily within a few minutes.

Oats & Aloe Exfoliant

1 tablespoon finely ground oats
1 tablespoon finely ground almonds
1 teaspoon honey
1 tablespoon aloe vera gel

Combine ingredients in a bowl and stir until well mixed. Apply to face and neck skin after cleansing and before toner is applied, using gentle circular motions. Rinse well with warm water and gently pat excess moisture from face. Follow with facial mask.

Creamy Facial Mask

2 tablespoons white clay (I recommend and use kaolin)
3 tablespoons whipping cream
1 tablespoon rose hydrosol

Combine all ingredients together in a bowl and stir until a paste-like consistency is achieved. If mixture is too runny, add a bit more clay and stir. If mixture is not smooth enough, add a bit more hydrosol. Spread over clean face as the step immediately preceding application of facial toner, avoiding eye area and lips. Rest for 10-15 minutes. Rinse with warm, water and pat excess water from face.

Essential oils can be obtained at most natural food/product stores. For mail order in Canada, here are two recommendations:

Osmosis (888) OSM-OSIS (676-6747)
The Aroma Shoppe (416) 698-5850

In the US, for mail order, I recommend:
Rainbow Meadow (800) 207-4047

Caution: As with anything that touches the skin, be careful when using any skin care products, as you could have an allergic reaction to even the natural ingredients they contain. Note the ingredients listed above, and if you are allergic to any of them, it would be wise to avoid the products containing them. If you notice any uncomfortable tingling or redness on your skin, you may be having an allergic reaction. If this occurs, rinse your skin thoroughly with warm water and avoid that product in the future; you may be allergic to something in it. Use common sense when using any skin care products, and remember that less is always more when it comes to essential oils.

Finally, we can answer your constant cries for a solution to dark circles around the eyes with a resounding yes! We’ve managed to zap away that other problem particular to us – unwanted body hair – but dark circles remain a cause of frustration, particularly to those of us with darker skin tones. It is estimated that up to one in five Asian women are prone to the problem, be it minor or severe, all searching for a cure or ways to minimise their appearance.

A recent UK survey, commissioned by US beauty experts Bremenn Research Labs, revealed that 48% of women found dark circles to be their most embarrassing and distressing beauty problem, as it made them look old, tired, and exhausted. If you fall into this percentage and suffer from dark circles (and I don’t mean the kind that appear in the morning after a heavy night and are gone by breakfast – but the type that stay around forever), then you’ll want to know why, and more importantly, how to prevent them.

Serious dark circles (the kind that make you look like you went five rounds in the boxing ring with a panda) are caused by the oxidation of blood in the capillary of the eye. These leak blood (through a process called haemoglobin degradation), creating a dark bluish, black pigmentation that looks similar to a bruise. The blood turns deep purple and you end up having dark shaded skin shaped like a circle around the eyes. There are a whole host of factors that cause dark circles or make them worse. In younger people, allergies or chronic medical conditions make dark circles around the eyes more noticeable. In older people, dark circles are often caused by the thinning of ageing skin, which makes blood vessels below the surface more apparent.

Other causes include:

You inherited them
Dark circles under the eyes tend to run in families. If your parents suffer from them, chances are, you will too. The skin under the eye is extremely thin and delicate. When blood passes through the large veins close to the surface of the skin, it can produce a bluish tint. The more transparent your skin, the darker the circles will appear.

You have spent too much time in the sun
In darker skinned people, exposure to sunlight can cause a melanin surge (a higher-than-normal level of skin pigmentation under the eyes). We get suntans because exposure to the sun increases the natural pigmentation of the skin and draws that pigmentation to the surface. This principle also applies to the under eye skin.

You have an allergy or suffer from asthma or eczema
Any allergies or medical conditions that causes your eyes to itch can contribute to darker circles, because rubbing or scratching the skin under the eyes can darken the skin. Hay fever sufferers may notice under-eye "smudges" during the height of the allergy season.

Your medication is causing them to appear
Some medications may cause blood vessels to dilate and can lead to dark under eye circles. As the skin under the eyes is very delicate, any increase in blood flow will be visible through the skin.

You’re not getting the nutrition your body needs
A lack of nutrients in the diet, or an unbalanced diet, can contribute to the discoloration of the area under the eyes. Excess sugar consumption is an enemy for dark circle sufferers. Research about the action of insulin shows that sugar can lead not only to weight problems, but also skin problems, through inflammatory responses as well as their effect on protein, which can age the skin and the body prematurely through a process called glycation. Inflammation can lead to eye puffiness and dark circles. Salt is another culprit – too much produces fluid retention that increases the pressure in the small capillaries in the eye area.

You’re not getting enough sleep
A lack of sleep caused by late nights is a big contributor. Too many late nights can lead to paleness of the skin, which allows the blood underneath the skin to become more visible and darker in appearance.

Pregnancy
They appear during your pregnancy or at certain times in your menstrual cycle Skin can also become paler during pregnancy and menstruation, which again allows the underlying veins under the eyes to become more visible.

They are caused though ageing
As we get older the skin around the eyes gets thinner, due to the gradual collapse of the ‘scaffolding’ formed by collagen fibres combined with the weakening of the elastic fibres which keep the skin taut. So skin around the eyes is thin and gets thinner with age – allowing the blood vessels and darker shadows of bone to show through.

Blame it on the world you live in
Stress and environmental pollutants including cigarette smoke or dust may irritate the area around the eyelids causing the appearance of dark circles.

Treating them…
And finally we come to the question that you are all waiting to be answered. How can we get rid of them? Unfortunately, there is no simple answer or a miracle cure. But there are certainly steps you can take and products you can use to diminish the appearance of dark circles.

Rebecca Terpou at the Peach Tree Beauty Clinic tells us: ‘As far as cures are concerned, there aren’t any specific treatments that can eliminate dark circles. They can occur due to a variety of factors, be it hereditary, due to unhealthy lifestyle patterns or lack of sleep. All we can do is look at ways to minimise them and to ensure that the condition does not get worse. One of the most important things to do is to increase the hydration levels around the eyes using area specific creams.’

Shenaz Shariff from The Face & Body Clinic adds: ‘A healthy lifestyle, coupled with treatments and products, will definitely produce good results and, in many cases, eradicate the problem.’

Various beauty products or complementary therapies lay claim to miraculous powers and you’ve probably lost count of the amount you’ve tried and tested. You’re certainly not to be blamed for remaining somewhat cynical and weary of the new and costly creams to hit the cosmetic counters.