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In early India, people
fashioned jewellery out of natural
materials found in abundance all over the country-seeds, feathers, leaves,
berries, fruits, flowers, animal bones, claws and teeth. Even today such jewellery is used by the different tribal societies. Interstingly, these tribal jewellry
items are also famous worldwide as high fashion jewelry! Excavations at
Mohenjodaro and other sites of the Indus Valley civilization have unearthed a
wealth of ornaments. It appears that both men and women of that time wore
jewellery made of gold, silver, copper, ivory and precious and semi-precious
stones. The Ramayana and the Mahabharata are abound with descriptions of
ornaments and the code of Manu defines the duties of the goldsmith. By the third
century B.C., India was the leading exporter of gemstones, particularly
diamonds. Gold was usually imported into the country, a practice prevalent even
during the Mughal period.
In India the ornaments are
made practically for every part of the body. Such a variety of ornaments bears
the testimony to the excellent skills of the jewellers in India. The range of
jewellery in India varied from religious one to purely aesthetic one. Jewellery
was crafted not just for humans but also for the gods, ceremonial elephants and
horses. The craft of indian jewellry was given a
royal patronage right from the ancient times. The rajas and maharajas vied with
each other to possess the most exquisite and the most magnificent pieces of
jewellery. Temple complexes supported many different styles of jewellery-scented
sandalwood bead necklacesand other beaded jewellry the prayer bead or the rudraksh (berry of the elaocarpus canitrus)
necklace, multicoloured silk and gold thread necklaces.
Jewellery in India fulfils many functions and wearing it has
several implications. At the most obvious level, it is a form of adornment
satisfying Man's innate desire to beautify himself. However, jewellery also
serves as an identity marker, as security, and as symbol of social contracts.
For Hindus, jewellery is associated with most religious ceremonies, especially
the samaskaras (stages of life) such as the namkarna (naming ceremony) or the
vivaha (marriage). To signify marital status, Hindu women must wear the
mangalsutra or the thali, which consist of gold pendants strung in a certain
combination with other beads. Traditionally, a goldsmith pierces a child's ear
with a gold pin twelve days after it is born.
Jewellery as investment
In the Hindu, Jain and Sikh community where
women do not inherit landed property, precious metal jewellry was a major component of the streedhana (gifts given to a woman at
the time of her marriage). Jewellery, because of its easy convertibility into
cash, was thus regarded as security and
investment.
Jewellery in India fulfils many
functions and wearing it has several implications. At the most obvious level, it
is a form of adornment satisfying Man's innate desire to beautify himself.
However, jewellery also serves as an identity marker, as security, and as
symbol of social contracts. For Hindus, jewellery is associated with most
religious ceremonies, especially the samaskaras (stages of life) such as the
namkarna (naming ceremony) or the vivaha (marriage). To signify marital status,
Hindu women must wear the mangalsutra or the thali, which consist of gold
pendants strung in a certain combination with other beads. Traditionally, a
goldsmith pierces a child's ear with a gold pin twelve days after it is
born.
The goldsmiths
In India, goldsmiths are
usually men and are referred to by a variety of names depending on the
region-sonar, swarnakara, panchallar, or thattan. In the Vedic period,
goldsmiths had a much higher standing than most other artisans, perhaps because
they worked with a precious metal. The goldsmiths had royal patrons. Historical
records show that Indian jewellers mastered quite early the various skills
required to make fine jewellery-mixing alloys, moulding, drawing fine wires,
setting stones, inlay work, relief, drawing gold and silver into thin wires,
plating and gilding. In smaller places, the goldsmith may perform all the
processes involved in producing a finished piece. In cities, the different
operations are undertaken by separate people-the goldsmith prepares the skeletal
framework, the chatera engraves, the kundansaaz or jaria sets the stones while
the meenasaaz enamels it.
Unique styles
Different regions of India boast of jewellery making
styles unique to them -in Orissa and Andhra Pradesh fine filigree work in
silver, in Jaipur the art of enamelling or meenakari, temple jewellery from
Nagercoil and kundan or the setting of semi-precious or precious stones in gold
from Delhi. A wide variety of silver beads are found all over India, especially
in Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh and Himachal Pradesh.
In filigree
work, patterns of leaves, flowers, butterflies, birds and geometrical shapes are
made with silver wires of varying thickness. The skilled jewellers draw out fine
wires of silver mixed with a little bit of lead and make an outline of the
pattern in thick wire. Fine wires are then collected inside the framework to
create a delicate lace-like appearance in silver jewellry.
Meenakari and kundan are the styles of jewellery making
influenced by the Mughals and are usually used in combination to make jewellery
that can be worn on both sides such as chokers and necklaces. The temple
jewellery of Nagercoil consists of traditional gold ornaments studded with red
and green semi-precious stones. These were used as offerings to the Gods and
hence the name. Today, some of these designs are being made in silver and then
washed with gold.
In Assam, soft 24 carat gold is fashioned into earrings
and necklaces modelled on the local flora and fauna-earrings like the hona,
which replicate the orchid and the lokaparo, which consists of two birds placed
back to back.
In Nagaland, gold is used to craft imitations of the human
head and long funnel shaped beads which are used in combination with shells,
animal claws and teeth and precious and semi-precious stones.
The
designs in solid gold jewellery of Tamil Nadu and Kerala are inspired by nature.
The paisley motif or the ambi, rice grains, the cobra's hood, melon and cucumber
seeds are some of the common motifs.
Silversmiths of Himachal Pradesh
craft large ornaments, which have a very delicate and intricate appearance.
Headdresses called chak, long earrings and large nose-rings with papal leaf or
bird motifs are the specialties of the region. In Ladakh, silver charm boxes and
headdresses called perak with rows of turquoise, cornelian, coral and agate
stitched onto it are quite common.
Jewels of India
"Diamonds are a girl's best
friend!" sang Marilyn Monroe, seductively, in the 1953 hit movie Gentlemen
Prefer Blondes. The conviction has not changed since then. Think birthdays,
anniversaries, special moments and what is it that will bring a sparkle to a
woman's eyes? The flash of diamonds! The glitter of gold! The glorious glint of
jewels!
An Indian woman's penchant for jewellery is perhaps
greater than that of women elsewhere. The love affair starts from the cradle. As
a baby, bangles dangle from her wrist and anklets tinkle as she moves. By the
time she is a toddler, she has added earrings and probably nose rings to her
jewellery casket. And when she gets married, she receives as gifts
streedhan — wealth in the form of jewellery — from her parents. Adorning
herself with jewellery is an everyday affair, not restricted to occasions and
festivals.
Jewelry is of great importance in Indian wedding.
Wedding jewelry and Bridal jewelry is an important aspect in any Indian
women's life. Be it a necklace set, or a pendant set, bangles, rings,
bracelets or earrings, jewelry is a very important part of Indian wedding.
Jewelry can be of gold, silver, diamond or platinum depending on your
budget and taste. If your budget is high than you can go for designer
jewelry and customized jewelry. Jewelry can be of different style
depending on the occasion. For pre wedding functions like sangeet, mehendi
and engagement you can opt for simple and light jewelry. Go for a gold
chain with pendants and earrings in gold, silver and white gold studded
with diamonds, precious stones and semi-precious stones. Mainly heavy
jewelry is worn on the main wedding day. The bride is adorned with jewelry
from head to toe. Nowadays people are opting for fashion jewelry matching
with their outfit. People are also customizing their wedding jewelry. For
example if you are wearing a red color saree or lehenga than you can wear
a gold set with red semi precious on it.
Jewelry is of great importance in Indian wedding. Wedding jewelry and Bridal
jewelry is an important aspect in any Indian women's life. Be it a necklace set,
or a pendant set, bangles, rings, bracelets or earrings, jewelry is a very
important part of Indian wedding. Jewelry can be of gold, silver, diamond or
platinum depending on your budget and taste. If your budget is high than you can
go for designer jewelry and customized jewelry. Jewelry can be of different
style depending on the occasion. For pre wedding functions like sangeet, mehendi
and engagement you can opt for simple and light jewelry. Go for a gold chain
with pendants and earrings in gold, silver and white gold studded with diamonds,
precious stones and semi-precious stones. Mainly heavy jewelry is worn on the
main wedding day. The bride is adorned with jewelry from head to toe. Nowadays
people are opting for fashion jewelry matching with their outfit. People are
also customizing their wedding jewelry. For example if you are wearing a red
color saree or lehenga than you can wear a gold set with red semi precious on
it.
Keeping in mind your budget you can choose your jewelries. People from different
community prefer different style and kind of jewelry. For example a conventional
Punjabi family might prefer chunky or heavy jewelry with colored stones,
Marwari's and Sindhi's usually prefers diamonds. Nowadays designer jewelry are
available in different textures, different settings, three dimensional designs
with geometric shapes, different kinds of metal and finish with diamonds and
precious stones and has also experimented with different types of designer
glass. Wide varieties of stones are available, which comes in different colors,
quality, price and shapes like baguettes, rubies, emeralds, aquamarines, garnet,
amethyst, citrine, and sapphires. Today's woman prefers contemporary designs and
traditional designs presented in a sleek manner. They go for something trendy
and wearable in all occasions and not too heavy and detailed. So next time when
you go for jewelry shopping keep in mind the kind of jewelry you want and your
budget than accordingly you can make your decision.
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